365 Cheeses
 

Switzerland Archives

November 8, 2006

8. Entelbucher Schwingerkäse

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Schwing!
Entelbucher Schwingerkäse comes from the Swiss town of Entelbuch in the Canton of Lucerne. Entelbuch is probably most famous for a breed of cattle dog called the Entelbucher Sennenhund or simply the Entelbucher. I'm not sure what the actual translation of "Schwingerkäse" would be in English, maybe "swing cheese". The verb "schwingen" means to swing or to beat or to oscillate. The name may come from some production process that involes beating or swinging the cheese around or may be named after someone named "Schwing". My research uncovered no origins for the name. "Käse", pronounced kay-za, is the German word for cheese.

The cheese is similar in flavor, color and texture to what we most think of as "Swiss cheese". It lacks the sharpness of a Gruyère or Emmentaler but has the same undertones of flavor and notes of fresh bread. The color is a very pale whitish yellow and there are only a few small holes.

It's a good cheese but the price is steep and not one I'd recommend when its equals can be found much cheaper.

Name: Entelbucher Schwingerkäse
Type of Milk: Cow, Unpasteurized
Type: semi-hard
Produced in: Switzerland, Tirol, Spezialitätenkäserei Doppleschwand AG
Date Produced: Unknown
Date Purchased: 10/23/2006
Date Eaten: 10/24/2006
Purchased Where: United States, North Carolina, Raleigh, A Southern Season
Price: $21.99/lb.

November 16, 2006

16. Emmentaler

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When most people think of "Swiss cheese" they most likely think of the original or some variation of Emmentaler, a pale yellow, semi-hard cheese with large air holes. The name and spelling can be a little confusing. You will often see it listed as emmental, emmenthal, emmenthaler and emmentaler (both capitalized and lower case). The Emme is a river in Switzerland. "Thal" or "Tal" means "valley" in German. The "h" is silent so both are pronounced the same and in modern usage the "h" is usually left out altogether. So the "Emmental" is the valley through which the Emme river flows. Someone or something from that valley, like a cheese, would be an "Emmentaler", capitalized because the river and the person are proper nouns and because ALL nouns in German are capitalized. So my perferred name and the name protected by denomination is "Emmentaler". ("Emmentaler Switzerland®" is the protected name.)

Emmentaler is a pleasant swiss cheese. Compared to most "Swiss cheese" found on supermarket shelves it is packed with flavor. Compared to so many other cheeses, say Gruyere or Leerdammer, though it is a little bland. I like it with fruit like apples or pears or for breakfast on toast with berry jam.

For economy-sake look for center-cut pieces, offering more edible center and less inedible hard rind. More holes may look nicer and you aren't paying for the air that fills them so if you like the looks, choose cuts that have them.

Name: Emmentaler or Emmenthaler or Emmental or Emmenthaler
Type of Milk: Cow, Pasteurized
Type: semi-hard
Produced in: Switzerland
Date Produced: Unknown
Date Purchased: 11/17/2006
Date Eaten: 11/18/2006
Purchased Where: United States, North Carolina, Raleigh, Whole Foods
Price: $7.99/lb.

December 14, 2006

43. Tête de Moine

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"Tête de Moine" is French for "monk's head" (not to be confused with "Têtes des Moines"-- "Des Moines heads"). I have heard three possible origins for the cheese's name. One story claims that when the inventory of cheese was done at the Bellelay abbey where the cheese is made, it was counted out as one per monk, one per monk's head. The second story states that the abbey paid its taxes with its only valuable good, its cheese. Like all taxes these were thought to be rather high and rather than say they cost "an arm and a leg" they said the cost was a whole monk's head. The third tale is of Napoleon's army moving through the town and thinking the round cheese with its missing top resembled a monk's tonsure. They called the cheese "Tête de Moine". It's possible one, none or all of these stories are true. Names are tricky things. Traditionally Tête de Moine is served via a device called a Girolle. Think if a round wooden board with a long nail through the center. The nail punches through the center of the cheese and then has a handled blad attached that shaves away the top of the cheese. When done slowly and with enough pressure, florettes of cheese, also called Girolles, are produced.

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Of course, you can serve Tête de Moine without purchasing a Girolle and the cheese will not suffer for it. If you don't use a Girolle, use a cheese plane or a very sharp knife to shave off thin slices from the cheese straight out of the refrigerator. Cold cheese assures thinner slices. One of the delights of this cheese comes from being served wafer thin. A whole wheel of the cheese weighs 1.5 to 2 pounds but your cheesemonger should be able to cut it to any amount desired.

The flavor resembles many other Swiss cheeses. Not too sharp. Pleasant. A great cheese for a comfortable crowd of guests.

Name: Tête de Moine
Type of Milk: Cow Unpasteurized
Type: semi-hard
Produced in: Switzerland
Date Purchased: 12/13/2006
Date Eaten: 12/13/2006
Purchased Where: United States, North Carolina, Raleigh, A Southern Season
Price: $17.99/lb.

January 5, 2007

63. Appenzeller

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The name "Appenzeller" can refer to the people of the Appenzell region of Switzerland, or, like Entelbucher, a breed of Swiss cattle herding dog (the Appenzeller Sennenhund), or a 700 year-old type of Swiss cheese. Along with Emmentaler and Gruyere, Appenzeller stands in the triumvirate of Swiss cheeses. Over 70 Swiss dairies produce versions of this cheese and it appears in many fondue recipes, either by itself or alongside its partners.
The age of a particular Appenzeller can often be determined by its name or the color of its label:

- A silver label, like the one I tried, designates a cheese aged three to four months before shipping and may be labeled "Classic".
- A gold or wheat colored label, named "Surchoix", French for "top choice", is the penultimate level of aging, from four to six months.
- Appenzeller aged longer than six months will bare a black label with the word "Extra" imprinted on it.
(Note that these terms for aging apply only to Appenzeller. For example "Surchoix" for the Gruyère from Roth Käse Diary in Wisconsin is aged nine months.)
The more age Appenzeller has the sharper and stronger the flavor.

We used it in fondue on New Year's Eve and its was delicious.

Name: Appenzeller
Type of Milk: Cow, Unpasteurized
Type: semi-hard
Produced in: Switzerland
Date Purchased: 12/27/2006
Date Eaten: 12/31/2006
Purchased Where: United States, North Carolina, Chapel Hill, A Southern Season
Price: $14.99/lb.

January 19, 2007

77. Beech Tree Mountain

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The name of this raw milk cheese changes depending on the country it is being sold in. In the English-speaking world it is called Beech Tree Mountain, named for the Beechtree Mountain of central Switzerland, and is produced by the Von Mühlenen family cheese business. Beech Tree Mountain lack the lingering tang of a sharp Gruyère but has other complexities of flavor that make it an interesting guest at your next cheese party. The raw milk flavor is distinct. You also may taste the fresh hay flavors found in many cheeses from Switzerland. Spectacular flavors.

Name: Beech Tree Mountain or Bucheggberg Schlosskäse or Buckschlosskäse or Buchschlosskaese or Mont Buchegg or Monte Buchegg
Type of Milk: cow's, unpasteurized, part-skim
Type:
Produced in: Switzerland, Solothurn region, Von Mühlenen
Date Purchased: 12/27/2006
Date Eaten: 12/31/2006
Purchased Where: United States, North Carolina, Chapel Hill, A Southern Season
Price: $19.99/lb.

January 20, 2007

78. Bergblumenkäse

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Straight on the heels of my last post for a raw milk cheese from Switzerland, comes Bergblumenkäse, another Swiss cheese with a mountain in its name. Instead of a geographic hill this "Berg" is a Mountain Flower (" Bergblumenkäse" literally translates to "Mountain Flower Cheese") and different in flavor from other Swiss cheeses. You get a sense of what the cows ate as you eat this cheese. The taste reminds me of grass and hay and pleasant barnyard aromas. Wheels of Bergblumenkäse are aged in herbs and straw for six months which imparts an unusual but delightful taste. It will probably be hard to find and expensive if you can get it but for a rare treat give it a try if you can.

Name: Bergblumenkäse or Bergblume or Mountain Flower
Type of Milk: cow's, unpasteurized
Type: semi-hard
Produced in: Switzerland
Date Purchased: 12/27/2006
Date Eaten: 12/31/2006
Purchased Where: United States, North Carolina, Chapel Hill, A Southern Season
Price: $22.99/lb.

February 4, 2007

93. Vacherin Fribourgeois

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From time to time someone will say to me, "You must meet a friend of mine. You two will really hit it off." On a rare occasion, we clash like tartan plaid and pastel polka dots when we meet. When this happens I always have to ask myself if the person is really crass, overbearing and foul or did I just catch him on a bad day. These thoughts occurred to me when I tasted Vacherin Fribourgeois for the first time. Right now the two of us can't stand being in the same room together.
Tales of the cheese's youth are glowingly recounted on the label with words such as "grass", "Alpine pastures" and "butter". No trace of these qualities remained in the cheese I tasted, like a beauty pageant winner who has not aged gracefully. The overwhelming flavor of the Vacherin I tasted was funk, the foul bacterial stench of bodily odor.
Vacherin Fribourgeois is a semisoft member of the raclette family, made from unpasteurized cow's milk in the Swiss canton of Fribourg. The Fribougeois will use it in fondue alongside Gruyère from the same region make a moitié-moitié, half-and-half. Either they use a younger cheese or are more accustomed to the taste.

Name: Vacherin Fribourgeois
Type of Milk: cow's, unpasteurized
Type: semisoft
Produced in: Switzerland, Fribourg
Date Purchased: 2/13/2007
Date Eaten: 2/15/2007
Purchased Where: United States, Online Order, www.murrayscheese.com
Price: $26.99/lb.

February 5, 2007

94. Hoch Ybrig

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"Hōk-ē-brik" is the pronuncitation of this raw milk cheese from the Swiss area of Ybergeregg (or "Ibergeregg'), pronounced "ē-berk-er-ek". I imagine that the Hoch Ybrig before me now tastes like the cheese from my previous post, Vacherin Fribourgeois, on a good day. I like it.
The flavor is pastoral and intense with just the right amount of earthiness and "onion". To some the taste will be too much. The rind has been washed in local white wine and seeps into the wonderful taste. The texture is firm like Gruyère and also used in fondue for a more intense experience.

Name: Hoch Ybrig
Type of Milk: cow's, unpasteurized
Type: semihard
Produced in: Switzerland
Date Purchased: 2/13/2007
Date Eaten: 2/15/2007
Purchased Where: United States, North Carolina, Chapel Hill, A Southern Season
Price: $27.99/lb.

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